Isn't that way cool. That the Ocean calls to us in the way it does.
Sounds screwy right ?
No.
Jason was hearing it. A favorite photo from Big Wed 12/21/05

hmm first day of Winter too !
It was on that day that I knew I wanted to be on a 15-20 foot wave...,
that changed who I was. It was that day that I became so permanently stoked
...